Sephardic Jews of the Balkans | A Rare 12-Day Heritage Tour

Arrival and Check-In: Upon arriving in Belgrade, the group will check into the hotel. Depending on the arrival time, breakfast or lunch will be provided to prepare everyone for the day’s activities.

Jewish Historical Museum: The tour begins at the Jewish Historical Museum, housed in a building designed by architect Samuel Sumbul in 1928 for the Sephardic Jewish community. The museum’s permanent exhibition showcases the history of Sephardic Jews in the Balkans, from their arrival in the 2nd–3rd century through World War II, including the Holocaust. Visitors can explore Jewish traditions, religion, art, and architecture and access a unique database of birth, marriage, and death records of Belgrade’s Jewish community from the 19th century to 1941.

Dorćol – The Former Jewish Quarter: A short walk takes you to Dorćol, the historic hub of Jewish life in Belgrade. Jevrejska (Jewish) Street remains a central landmark reflecting this heritage. The visit includes the Holocaust Memorial, an evocative sculpture by Nandor Glid, symbolizing the perseverance and remembrance of the Jewish community.

Sephardic Jewish Cemetery: A 15-minute drive leads to the Sephardic Jewish Cemetery, a site of historical and cultural significance. Memorials here honour Holocaust victims and Jewish soldiers from the Balkan Wars (1912–1913) and World War I, offering a moment to reflect on the profound contributions of Sephardic Jews to the region.

Question Mark” Tavern: The itinerary includes a stop at the historic “Question Mark” tavern, established in 1823 and recognized as the oldest in Belgrade. This venue provides a comfortable setting to enjoy refreshments and learn about local history.

Sukkat Shalom Synagogue: The day concludes with a visit to the Sukkat Shalom Synagogue, the only functioning synagogue in Belgrade. Built in 1926 for the Ashkenazi Jewish community, it features late neo-classical architecture and serves as an enduring symbol of Jewish heritage. The group will learn about its historical significance, including the cornerstone-laying ceremony attended by King Alexander and Queen Maria in 1924.

Evening at Leisure: After engaging with the rich heritage of Sephardic Jews and Belgrade’s Jewish community, the evening is free for personal activities. Options include exploring Belgrade’s city centre, enjoying local dining, or relaxing at the hotel. Overnight in Belgrade.

Morning Departure: Begin the day with a drive from Belgrade to Novi Sad, the capital of the Vojvodina region and Serbia’s second-largest city. Located along the Danube River, Novi Sad is recognized for its cultural diversity and significant Jewish history.

Sremski Karlovci Visit: Upon arrival, the first stop is Sremski Karlovci, a town known for its historical significance and cultural landmarks. Explore sites such as the Patriarchate Court, Saint Nicholas Church, and the Karlovci Gymnasium, established in 1791, highlighting the town’s educational heritage. Sremski Karlovci is also renowned for its wine production; a tasting session offers insight into this local tradition.

Petrovaradin Fortress: Continue along the right bank of the Danube to the Petrovaradin Fortress, a structure with a vast underground network of passages. Originally constructed as a defence against invasions, the fortress provides panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Lunch Break: Enjoy lunch at a local restaurant, sampling regional cuisine.

Novi Sad Exploration: After lunch, explore downtown Novi Sad, characterized by its multicultural atmosphere and architectural diversity. Stroll through streets adorned with colourful facades and unique window designs, reflecting the city’s rich history. Established in the late 18th century along the Danube, Novi Sad’s development was significantly influenced by its Jewish community.

Novi Sad Synagogue: Visit the Novi Sad Synagogue, constructed in the early 20th century in the Art Nouveau style. This building stands as a testament to the Jewish heritage in the area and is considered one of the finest examples of Jewish architecture in the Balkans.

Free Time: Conclude the tour with personal time to explore Novi Sad at your own pace.

Return to Belgrade: In the evening, return to your accommodation in Belgrade. Overnight in Belgrade.

Morning Departure: Start the day early, departing from Belgrade and travelling through Serbia toward Srebrenica. Along the way, stop in Divič for lunch at a local restaurant, sampling traditional Bosnian flavours that reflect the multicultural influences of the region, including those shaped by Sephardic Jews.

Srebrenica Memorial and Museum: Arrive at the Srebrenica Memorial and Museum around noon, a site dedicated to remembering those who lost their lives during the genocide. While the Jewish community in Srebrenica was small, the memorial resonates with the broader themes of loss and resilience shared across many persecuted communities, including Sephardic Jews during the Holocaust. Exhibits featuring photographs, video documentation, and personal accounts offer a reflective experience.

Meeting a Survivor: In the afternoon, meet a survivor of the genocide, who will share their personal experiences. While Srebrenica’s tragedy is not tied to Jewish history, this encounter offers insight into the enduring themes of recovery and resilience that resonate across cultural and historical divides.

Natural Springs Visit: Later, visit the natural springs near Srebrenica, known for their mineral-rich waters. Learn about their historical significance and how they have supported communities for generations, reflecting the interconnectedness of diverse cultures in the region.

Travel to Sarajevo: Depart for Sarajevo in the late afternoon, a city known for its rich Sephardic Jewish heritage. Upon arrival, check in at your hotel and rest after a meaningful and reflective day.

Overnight in Sarajevo: Enjoy an evening at leisure, preparing to explore Sarajevo’s extraordinary Jewish history in the days ahead.

National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Sarajevo Haggadah: Begin your day at the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, home to the Sarajevo Haggadah, a 14th-century illuminated manuscript and one of the most treasured artefacts of Jewish culture. Brought to Sarajevo by Sephardic Jews fleeing persecution in Spain, the Haggadah is an extraordinary example of medieval Jewish art and resilience. Its journey through centuries, surviving wars and attempts to confiscate it, highlights the enduring legacy of Jewish heritage in Bosnia. A visit to the museum and this remarkable artefact provides a profound introduction to Sarajevo’s Jewish history.

Old Jewish Cemetery: Next, explore the Old Jewish Cemetery in Sarajevo, established in 1630 and recognized as one of the largest and oldest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. The cemetery served both Sephardic and Ashkenazi communities until 1966 and contains over 3,850 tombstones. Many feature intricate carvings and inscriptions that tell the stories of generations of Jewish life in Sarajevo. Monuments within the cemetery, including a memorial to victims of fascism, honour the sacrifices and resilience of the Jewish community. This site stands as a solemn reminder of Sarajevo’s deep Jewish roots.

Museum of the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina: Continue to the Museum of the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina, housed in the old Sephardic Synagogue. This museum provides insight into the history and contributions of the Jewish community in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its exhibits include artefacts, photographs, and documents that showcase the community’s cultural and historical significance.

Bosnian Cultural Center: Passed by the Bosnian Cultural Center, formerly the Great Sephardi Synagogue. While no longer functioning as a synagogue, this building remains an important symbol of the city’s diverse cultural legacy and the historical presence of Sarajevo’s Sephardic Jews.

Ashkenazi Synagogue: Visit the Ashkenazi Synagogue, built in the pseudo-Moorish style and still in use today. The synagogue also houses the Jewish Community Center, which serves as a hub for contemporary Jewish life in Sarajevo. The architecture and active community reflect the continuation of Jewish traditions in the city.

Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica): On the way to the old town, pass by the Sarajevo City Hall, a grand Austro-Hungarian building designed in 1891. Today, this iconic structure houses the National and University Library and is an emblem of Sarajevo’s architectural heritage.

Lunch Break: Take a break at a local restaurant to enjoy traditional Bosnian dishes and prepare for the afternoon activities.

Latin Bridge and Baščaršija: In the afternoon, visit the Latin Bridge, historically significant as the site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s assassination in 1914, an event that marked the start of World War I. Conclude the tour with a stroll through Baščaršija, the city’s old bazaar. Its Ottoman-era architecture and bustling alleys reflect Sarajevo’s history as a crossroads of cultures.

Evening and Overnight: Return to your hotel in Sarajevo. The evening is free for personal exploration, relaxation, or enjoying Sarajevo’s vibrant local dining scene.

Morning Exploration: After breakfast, spend some free time exploring Sarajevo’s streets and historical areas. This is an opportunity to take in the city’s distinct atmosphere, visit local shops, or enjoy a traditional Bosnian coffee in the heart of the old town.

Sarajevo Siege Tour: Begin the tour with a visit to the Yellow Fortress, a site that offers a panoramic view of Sarajevo and insight into the city’s experiences during the siege. Your guide will explain the challenges faced by residents, including stories about key locations like Kovači Cemetery, the final resting place of many defenders, and the Markale Market, where civilians were targeted during the conflict. A stop at the Memorial for Children pays tribute to the youngest victims of the siege, highlighting the human cost of war.

The tour proceeds to locations that were critical during the siege, including Sniper Alley, the Holiday Inn, and the Old Yugoslav Military Barracks. Each site reveals a different perspective on Sarajevo’s resilience and survival during this difficult period. At the Tunnel of Hope Museum, walk through a preserved section of the tunnel that provided essential supplies to the city and connected it to the outside world. The tour concludes on Trebević Mountain at the Bobsleigh Track, a structure that was repurposed during the siege and now stands as a reminder of Sarajevo’s history and ability to rebuild.

Throughout the tour, there is also time to reflect on Sarajevo’s brighter moments, such as the 1984 Winter Olympics, which showcased the city to the world and contrasted sharply with the challenges faced during the siege years.

Evening: Sephardic Culinary Experience: In the evening, enjoy aSephardic culinary experience that highlights the fusion of Bosnian ingredients with traditional Jewish recipes. Learn how Sephardic women adapted their cooking to local influences while preserving their cultural identity. As you savour these flavours, the evening is enriched by the melodies of traditional Sephardic music, creating a unique connection to Sarajevo’s Jewish heritage. Each dish tells a story of resilience and cultural blending.

Return to Hotel: After dinner, return to your hotel for an overnight stay in Sarajevo. Reflect on the day’s experiences, which combine powerful historical insights with the enduring legacy of Sarajevo’s Sephardic community.

Morning Departure: After breakfast, we will check out of the hotel and begin our journey towards Mostar, stopping at historical towns along the way to explore their rich history and cultural significance.

First Stop: Travnik

Travnik Fortress: Our first visit will be to the Travnik Fortress, once the residence of Ottoman viziers. This well-preserved structure provides insights into Ottoman rule in Bosnia and its influence on local governance and architecture.

Jewish Heritage in Travnik:

• New Synagogue: Built-in 1860 to replace an 18th-century synagogue, the New Synagogue served as a spiritual hub for Travnik’s Jewish community. It was later repurposed and eventually demolished in 2008. We will visit the site where it once stood and reflect on its significance.
• Jewish Cemetery: Founded in 1762, this cemetery, located on a hillside near a Catholic cemetery, contains 250-300 tombstones with inscriptions in Hebrew and Ladino. At its centre stands a Holocaust memorial made of three of the oldest tombstones atop a concrete pedestal.

Plava Voda River Source: Visit the Plava Voda River, a natural spring flowing through Travnik, which has been a gathering place for centuries. Its serene surroundings provide a picturesque backdrop for exploring the town.

Birthplace of Ivo Andrić: Stop by the house where Ivo Andrić, the Nobel Prize-winning author of The Bridge on the Drina, was born. Learn about his contributions to literature and his connection to Bosnia’s cultural identity.

Lunch in Travnik: Enjoy a traditional Bosnian meal at one of Travnik’s renowned ćevabdžinicas, celebrated for their authentic flavours and warm hospitality.

Next Stop: Jajce

Medieval History and Architecture:

• Jajce Fortress: Built in the 13th century, this royal castle offers insights into the medieval Kingdom of Bosnia. Its elevated position provides views of the town and surrounding rivers.
• Catacombs: Explore the medieval catacombs, which were carved by a Bosnian duke and later used during World War II as a secure refuge.
• AVNOJ Museum: Visit the museum where the Anti-Fascist Council of the People’s Liberation of Yugoslavia (AVNOJ) held its second session during WWII. This site sheds light on Bosnia’s role in the anti-fascist movement.

Pliva Waterfall: The Pliva Waterfall, where the river cascades into the Vrbas River, stands at the centre of Jajce. Its proximity to other landmarks makes it a must-visit location.

Watermills of Jajce (Mlinčići): A short distance from the town centre, near the Pliva Lakes, lies the Watermills of Jajce, a collection of wooden mills built nearly 400 years ago. These mills ground grain for local communities and remain an example of traditional carpentry and engineering. Surrounded by nature, the area is perfect for photography and leisurely exploration.

Diverse Cultural Heritage: Jajce’s architecture and monuments reflect its rich history, shaped by four empires (Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian) and three religions (Christianity, Islam, Judaism).

Church of St. Mary and Sultan Suleyman II Mosque: Visit the remains of this site, which transitioned between a church and a mosque, symbolizing cultural and religious coexistence.

Evening in Mostar

After exploring Jajce, we will continue to Mostar for hotel check-in. You will have time to rest and reflect on the day’s experiences. Overnight in Mostar.

Morning in Mostar: After breakfast at the hotel, we will begin our exploration of Mostar, a city renowned for its rich history and cultural diversity.

Jewish Cemetery of Mostar: Our first stop is the Jewish Cemetery of Mostar, established between 1890 and 1904. This National Monument contains around 50-100 gravestones with inscriptions in Serbo-Croatian, Hebrew, and Ladino. Restored with EU support in 1996, the cemetery is still in use and maintained by the Jewish Community of Mostar. A Holocaust memorial, designed by local artists, stands prominently at the site.

Former Synagogue: We will visit the former synagogue, built in 1902, which now serves as a puppet theatre. Reclaimed after WWII by Jewish survivors, it was eventually transformed into a theatre due to financial challenges. Evidence of its Jewish origins, including a broken stone Decalogue, can still be seen at the entrance.

Old Bridge (Stari Most): Next, we’ll explore the Old Bridge, Mostar’s most iconic landmark. Originally built in the 16th century and destroyed during the war in 1993, it was meticulously rebuilt a decade later and now symbolizes unity between the city’s East and West.

Počitelj: Later, we’ll visit Počitelj, a stunning Ottoman-era fortress village built into a rocky hillside, featuring a maze of stone houses and stairways. This well-preserved settlement offers insights into the architectural and cultural influences of the Ottoman period.

Stolac and the Grave of Moshe Danon: Our journey continues to Stolac, where we’ll visit the grave of Moshe Danon, the Grand Rabbi of Sarajevo. His tomb is shaped like a seven-branched menorah, and the nearby prayer house for pilgrims has been rebuilt. This site is part of an annual pilgrimage tradition revived by Bosnia’s Jewish community.

Radimlja Necropolis: Close by, we will also visit the Radimlja medieval necropolis, known for its unique Stećci tombstones. These medieval monolithic tombstones are decorated with various motifs and inscriptions, reflecting the region’s historical and cultural heritage.

Lunch in Stolac: After our visit to the grave of Moshe Danon, we will enjoy lunch in Stolac, a charming town known for its rich history and beautiful surroundings. This will provide time to relax and soak in the peaceful atmosphere before we continue our journey.

Afternoon Return to Mostar: In the late afternoon, you will be driven back to your accommodation in Mostar, where you will have free time to explore the city on your own. Overnight in Mostar.

Morning Departure: After breakfast, we will check out from the hotel and begin our journey towards Split.

Kravice Waterfalls: En route, we will visit the Kravica Waterfalls, a natural wonder located on the Trebižat River in Bosnia and Herzegovina. These waterfalls, approximately 25 meters high, create a stunning amphitheatre of cascading water, offering a serene atmosphere ideal for relaxation and photography. The area is also suitable for swimming and picnics, providing a refreshing break during our journey.

Arrival in Split: Upon arrival in Split, we will have lunch at a local restaurant, sampling regional Dalmatian cuisine.

Jewish Heritage Tour of Split:

• Split Synagogue: Our tour begins at the Split Synagogue, established in the 16th century and located within Diocletian’s Palace. This synagogue, one of the oldest continuously functioning Sephardic synagogues in Europe, remains a central gathering place for the local Jewish community. Visitors may have the opportunity to meet community members at the Jewish Community Center on the premises.

• Historic Jewish Quarter: We will explore the narrow streets of the old Jewish neighbourhood, which was designated as a ghetto in the mid-1700s. Jews have been part of Split’s history since the 3rd century, initially settling in nearby Salona. By the Middle Ages, Jewish merchants significantly contributed to trade between Dalmatia, Italy, and the Danube region. In the 16th century, Split hosted two Sephardic communities: Eastern Jews from Ottoman territories and Western Sephardim from Italy. A notable figure, Daniel Rodriguez, played a pivotal role in establishing Split as a free port in 1592; a street in the Jewish neighbourhood still bears his name.

• Morpurgo Bookstore: We will visit the Morpurgo Bookstore, founded in 1860 by Vid Morpurgo, a member of one of Split’s prominent Ashkenazi families. This bookstore is among the oldest in Europe and reflects the cultural contributions of the Jewish community to the city.

• Diocletian’s Palace: Within Diocletian’s Palace, we will observe ancient menorah engravings on the walls, indicating the longstanding presence of Jews in the area. The palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site, offers insights into the Roman era and the city’s development over the centuries.

• Jewish Cemetery: Our tour concludes at the Jewish Cemetery, located on Marjan Hill. Established in 1573, the cemetery provides panoramic views of Split and the harbour. It contains numerous tombstones with inscriptions in Hebrew and Croatian, reflecting the community’s rich history.

Evening in Split: After the tour, you will have free time to explore Split’s vibrant streets, markets, and waterfront. Dinner will be at a local restaurant, allowing you to experience the city’s culinary offerings.

Morning: Trogir Exploration

Begin your day in Trogir, a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated for its well-preserved medieval architecture. As you walk through its narrow, cobbled streets, explore the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, a prime example of Romanesque-Gothic craftsmanship. Its intricate west portal, carved by Master Radovan in the 13th century, reflects Trogir’s historical significance.

Trogir’s history includes influences from the Greeks, Romans, and Venetians, making it a cultural hub for centuries. During the Ottoman era, Sephardic Jewish merchants were integral to trade networks in Dalmatia, including Trogir. While the town had no formal Jewish quarter, its role as a coastal trading port connected it to regional Jewish communities, particularly in Split and Dubrovnik.

Midday: Salona Archaeological Site

Next, visit Salona, the ancient capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia. This archaeological site offers insights into life in a bustling Roman city, showcasing remnants of an amphitheatre, city walls, and basilicas. Historical records suggest that Roman provinces, including Dalmatia, had small Jewish communities. Salona’s multicultural environment likely facilitated interactions between early Jewish settlers and Roman society.

Explore how Roman governance and urban planning influenced the broader region, setting the stage for later Jewish contributions to cultural and economic life in Dalmatia.

Afternoon: Klis Fortress

Proceed to the Klis Fortress, a strategic stronghold overlooking Split. The fortress played a pivotal role during the Ottoman era, serving as a key defensive site against Venetian advances. Under Ottoman rule, Sephardic Jews in the region thrived as traders and intermediaries, contributing to the economy of Dalmatia. While the fortress itself does not have direct Jewish ties, its history reflects the broader geopolitical dynamics that shaped Jewish life in the Balkans.

The fortress also provides panoramic views of Split, the surrounding mountains, and the Adriatic Sea, offering a moment to reflect on the diverse cultures that shaped the region’s history.

Evening: Return to Split

Conclude the day by returning to Split, where you can explore its Jewish heritage in greater depth. Split’s Jewish community, established in the 3rd century, left a lasting mark on the city’s cultural fabric. Highlights include the Jewish quarter, the synagogue, and the cemetery, which provide a deeper understanding of Sephardic contributions to Dalmatian history.

Enjoy dinner at one of Split’s local restaurants, offering a chance to sample traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Overnight in Split.

After checking out from Split, we will travel to Dubrovnik, with a stop in Mali Ston, a picturesque coastal town renowned for its historical and cultural significance.

Mali Ston: Culinary Traditions and Historical Heritage

Mali Ston Bay is renowned for its centuries-old tradition of oyster and mussel farming, a practice dating back to the Roman Empire and flourishing under the Dubrovnik Republic in the 17th century. This bay became a vital part of the region’s economy, and the farming techniques used here have been preserved over generations.

Although there is no direct evidence of Sephardic Jews in Mali Ston, their influence on trade and economic practices in the Dubrovnik Republic likely extended to this area. Sephardic Jewish merchants often facilitated the exchange of goods between coastal and inland regions, contributing to the thriving local economy.

Oyster Farm Experience

Enjoy a boat ride to the oyster farms, where freshly harvested oysters are served straight from the sea, paired with a glass of Pelješac wine. This experience reflects the culinary diversity of the Adriatic coast, which was enriched by various cultural influences, including Jewish merchants who traded wine, spices, and other goods.

Historic Salt Pans of Mali Ston

Visit the ancient salt pans of Mali Ston, among the oldest in Europe, where salt has been produced for over 2,000 years. The Dubrovnik Republic relied on these salt pans for trade and economic prosperity, and Jewish merchants played a crucial role in the regional salt trade. This connection underscores the interconnectedness of different communities during this period.

Leisure Time in Mali Ston

Take a break to enjoy a coffee in one of the quaint cafés on the main square or relax at a nearby beach before continuing to Dubrovnik.

Arrival in Dubrovnik

Upon arrival in Dubrovnik, we will check into the hotel. In the evening, you will have free time to explore Dubrovnik’s Old Town, known for its well-preserved Jewish quarter, Sephardic synagogue, and cemetery. This Jewish community, established in the 15th century, has left a lasting legacy in Dubrovnik’s cultural fabric.

Dubrovnik is a city where Sephardic Jewish history comes to life. The Jewish community in Dubrovnik traces its roots to the 15th century, when Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain and Portugal found refuge here, contributing to the city’s vibrant cultural and economic life.

Dubrovnik Synagogue and Jewish Museum

We will begin at the Dubrovnik Synagogue, established in 1532 and located in the heart of the old Jewish quarter. It is the second-oldest active synagogue in Europe and serves as a testament to the resilience and cultural richness of Dubrovnik’s Jewish community. Inside, the Jewish Museum features centuries-old artefacts, including ceremonial objects, documents, and stories detailing the lives of Dubrovnik’s Jewish families.

Judaica Shop

Next to the synagogue, you’ll find a small Judaica shop offering unique items like menorahs, mezuzahs, and books about Jewish history in Dubrovnik. This is a wonderful opportunity to purchase meaningful keepsakes and deepen your understanding of the community’s cultural legacy.

Historical Figures

In the 16th and 17th centuries, Dubrovnik was home to prominent Sephardic figures such as Rabbi Aaron ben David ha-Kohen from Florence and Rabbi Jacob Pardo, the grandson of Rabbi David Pardo of Sarajevo. Rabbi Jacob Pardo, a leading scholar, served both Dubrovnik and Split, leaving a profound mark on Jewish intellectual life in the region.

Strolling Through Dubrovnik

We will continue along Dubrovnik’s historic Stradun, the city’s main street, which was once a busy trade route where Jewish merchants played a key role in local commerce. The Jewish community contributed to Dubrovnik’s economic prosperity during the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik’s former name).

As we explore the city’s narrow streets and alleys, we will visit the Jewish cemetery on Boninovo Hill. Established in 1652, the cemetery contains over 200 tombstones inscribed in Hebrew, Ladino, and Croatian. It offers a glimpse into the life and legacy of Dubrovnik’s Sephardic community.

Free Time Activities

During your free time, consider walking along Dubrovnik’s ancient city walls, which provide stunning views of the Adriatic Sea and the old town. Alternatively, delve deeper into Jewish history with a visit to additional sites like the Rector’s Palace or relax at one of the charming cafés in the Old Town.

Overnight in Dubrovnik

The day concludes with free time to enjoy Dubrovnik’s rich cultural atmosphere before an overnight stay in this historic city.

The final day marks the end of your tour. After exploring the rich history of Sephardic Jews across the Balkans, we will provide a transfer to the airport. This journey has offered insight into Jewish heritage, from centuries-old synagogues and cemeteries to the cultural contributions that shaped the region. 

We wish you a pleasant journey home and hope to see you again for more explorations of this historic and culturally significant region.